- Acetone melts paint, glue, most modeeling putties and plastic
- It smells bad
- It evaporates easily so keep it stored in air-tight recipients.
- eye and hands protections highly recommended
- Dettol makes the paint soft (looks like it has wrinkles everywher) which makes it detach from the model
- It leaves plastics and glue unharmed
- It's slippy and once you get some on places you didn't want it to be, it gets reeeaaally annoying.
- eye and hands protection highly recommended
Protective gears :
|To try is to love it|
Stripping :Ok, now we've set the scene we can move to the main course.
The dip :You've got yourself a jampot and it's full of acetone or dettol so the first step is the easy one, just throw whatever you have to strip in the pots (remember that if there is any plastic you want to save you might want to use the dettol pot...
How long should you leave the models in the pot?, wel it all depends on the nature of the paint used, how thick the layer is, how old it is too and how fresh your stripping fluid is.
For some models with just a thin layer of priming, you don't even have to dip the models, the vapors of it are enought to remove the paint. Not you can also try a speed dip and if you're fast enough you can remove the paint before it damages the model (to be considered as a last chance method). Some materials like plastic-rubber can be dipped a few minutes without any serious damage.
In the case of Acetone , as I said, the longer the better. Most of the time I'll just throw my models in the pot as soon as I get them in the mailbox so that I can do all the stripping at once in the following week-end. If you are using acetone, you may want to make the bath a bit longer to remove any trace of glue.
The brushwork :As I said in the brush section, I tend to favor gentle circular moves with a soft brush to heavy handed linear movements with a hard brush but I guess it's all about what works best for you here.
Note that at this point if some parts still won't go, it's no use spending too much energy. Just put the models back in the stripper and come back some little later. The paint you have removed has enabled access to the stripper fluid which can work its way. You might also want to try toothpicks in the recesses if the paint is too thick in the crevices and holes (the eyes can be annoying parts sometimes).
Rincing :You now have models which look OK but which still have some little pieces of paint here and there and more importantly which are covered in acetone, Dettol or whatever product you used.
Last step is quite an important one and an easy one. Just pour some liquide soap on the models and brush them with hot water. Then let them rince under hot water to remove any trace of soap and you're good!
You just have to be careful you let them dry correctly by placing them on some absorbant paper. White metal and plastic won't be harmed by water but old lead (the soft dark grey kind) has to be dried correctly. Water in itself is not a problem but the oxygen it contains will oxydate the lead which can be the starting point of leadrot.
You don't want to hear about leadrot. EVER.
Put it another way, do you prefer spending one minute drying your models or seeing your runequest broos turn nito a blob of corroded cancerigenic dust? Yeah me too.
Once this is done I also tend to store m models in boxes with those drying bags you get with ink cartridges and other products.
Once all of this has been done you can fully appreciate the joy of your favourite models freed by years of clumsy brushwork.
Hope this will prove useful to those who haven't tried stripping model sbefore or for those unfamiliar with acetone stripping.
If you want to comment, ask questions or give alternative methods, tips or hints, please do so below. I'll update this post with anything that makes it clearer.